WATERING INSTRUCTIONS: Yard must be well drained prior to darkness. NEVER WATER AFTER DARK. The fiber and seed should be irrigated lightly and frequently to maintain optimum moisture content for maximum germination. The water should be left on long enough to soak the soil thoroughly to the depth of the fiber, plus about 2″ of your topsoil. Take care not to wash the fiber or soil particles off the slopes. (Keep yard damp like a wet washcloth as much as possible.)
If your seed starts to germinate and doesn’t receive ample water the new sprouts will die causing a thin looking lawn. After germination, over watering keeps oxygen from the soil and causes shallow rooting. The lawn roots must stretch down for water and other sources of food. With shallow root systems you must provide food constantly. Climate and season also affect watering frequency. A safe rule of thumb (after 4 weeks), is to water deeply at longer intervals. This lets the moisture penetrate to the full depth of the roots. Shallow watering evaporates before moisture and nourishment reaches the root structure. Try to water in early morning, when evaporation is slower and there’s less likelihood of sun scorching.
NOTE: THE RYE GRASS BLEND WILL SHOW IN ABOUT A WEEK WITH EVENING TEMPERATURES AT THE 50+ RANGE. THE FESCUE BLEND WILL TAKE 3-4 WEEKS, TOTAL.
NOTE: THE GREEN MULCH WILL TURN BROWN AS THE SUN BLEACHES OUT THE DYE. IF PROPER AMOUNTS OF WATER GIVEN THE MULCH WILL LOOK LIKE WET CARDBOARD. IRRIGATION
The irrigation system must be observed while in operation to establish irrigation sequence and timing. It is important that the soil be kept moist without over watering or washing away mulch during germination period. Timer setting new lawn 5:30-6 A.M., 11 A.M., 4 P.M., (Always at least 1.5 hours before dark). The frequent irrigation sequence should continue until the seedlings have grown beyond irrigation stage. (about 6 weeks)
In about 3-4 WEEKS YOUR LAWN WILL HAVE SOME AREA’S LONG ENOUGH TO MOW. MOW IT ALL. SOME AREAS MAY STILL LOOK A LITTLE THIN. NOT TO WORRY. GIVE MORE WATER TO THIN AREAS. SHADE SIDE OF MIX TAKES A LITTLE LONGER TO ESTABLISH
MOWING SCHEDULE: When your new lawn is long enough that your lawn mower will cut the grass, even if ALL the grass is not long enough to mow yet, we want you to mow the grass.
You don’t want to grow the tops but, You want the roots to grow, More frequent mowing will cause your new lawn to sod up much quicker. Two mowing per week is recommended, if you can find the time. Mow at 3″ – 2 1/2″ minimum, for the first 6 months. As grass fills in, you can lower cut to desired height. In cool weather “Spring and Fall” you can keep lawn short but in “HOT” summer raise cut 3″-2 1/2″, this will allow grass to hold more water.
WEEDS: Although our seed mix has maximum of .005% weed seed, there can be weeds in the soil prior to our Hydroseeding process. Planting a yard late in the season is more susceptible to weed infestation. Most weeds will die with mowing. Those that don’t die can usually be eliminated with one treatment of weed and feed at 8-10 weeks after planting. If weeds persist Ortho Weed Be Gone applied per instructions selectively will eliminate weeds.
FERTILIZATION: Your new Hydroseeded lawn will not usually need fertilizer for 4-5 weeks. We recommend you buy for the season which you are fertilizing for, Spring fertilizer, Summer Turf Builders or Fall. Be sure to read the directions carefully. Improper application can damage your lawn.
*IF YOU LAWN EVER STARTS TO YELLOW YOU KNOW IT IS TIME TO FERTILIZE.
Often times our lawns in the NW have a hard time growing due to the large amount of evergreens we have around our yards. Ones simple way to get the grass growing and cut down on moss growth is to add a dose of Lime and Iron 2 times yearly. The Iron will kill the moss and the Lime will sweeten the soil and raise the PH level to make it more suitable for grass to grow.
